Living out in the city, a day at the range is a pretty big deal for me. I was planning to go on Saturday (and man was the weather nice) but real life trumps all and shit got real. What I wanted to do was get a baseline before I did these mods but turns out I couldn't wait.
Here's the kit. This is what $18 buys you - a couple springs and shims.
So I previously installed and uninstalled the lightest spring of the kit, but because the trigger pull was so light I didn't know whether or not it was actually legal. Turns out there are no laws, just safety concerns with that kind of thing. I didn't use the shims because it didn't have much trigger creep anyway, but this time I just replaced everything.
Go ahead and check the site out because the instructions there are pretty straight forward.
The 1/8" punch that I have is not small enough and you need smaller. Maybe the Czechs have it different, but I don't have a drift punch and this one couldn't make it in the holes (that's what she said). So instead of spending more cash, I fabricated my own and used some grinded down nails. It was pretty ghetto but worked.
This is the first pin you need to remove - it holds the rear of the trigger and spring rod in place.
Let me just tell you that this was really difficult to get out the first time because the ends were actually mushroomed (and I didn't realize it). While it wasn't as hard as the sights of a 10/22, it was still kind of sketchy since those parts are so thin. It was easier this time around but still snug, which I think is a good thing.
Luckily all the parts of the trigger are metal instead of plastic like the 10/22, so being rough with those pins felt mildy acceptable.
Once the pin is removed the trigger swings down as well as the spring assembly. Don't lose the washer above the trigger adjustment nut either.
That spring is what determines the trigger pull weight. I used the second lightest spring in the kit.
If you're interested, this guy does a good job explaining the whole setup, how it works and where the creep comes from.
Remove the second pin and the trigger comes completely free. The gap where second pin fits is where the creep comes from. When you pull the trigger the tiny space that the pin has to travel before actually making contact with the sear is creep. You can think of it as a dead zone before things actually go click.
I didn't really have that much before but I can honestly say that now I have none...or so little that it's not noticeable to me anyway. Pretty much a light touch will fire it now.
Once you have the trigger out it's just a matter of trying out the different shims to see what fills the gap between the sear best. Turns out that the red one fits mine or at least that's what I thought at the time. It's 1/16000" inch thick.
It's trial and error with this step and you basically need to keep putting back/taking off the trigger to see what works. You can't really tell by just half putting it back on and eye balling it (I learned that the fool's way). You really put everything in to see if it actually fits alright.
Maybe because I'm such a noob, but the difference between shims is so small and barely noticeable that I honestly don't even know if I chose the right one.
The kit also provides you with a new pin (left) to use instead of the old one (right). The replacement isn't actually a pin, but a rolled piece of metal.
The kit comes with 4 springs. The lightest is rated at 0.5 pounds and the heaviest 3 pounds. Since there's no measurements for the ones in between, I guess the second lightest is around 1 pound. That's a complete guess but it's noticeably lighter than the stock spring, which I also don't know the weight of. The lightest one felt borderline dangerous and would probably just fire if the stock was hit.
Put everything back together and you're done.
On a related note, I finally scoped the thing. The stock iron sights are pretty awesome but because I have horrible eyes and can't even see the targets at 100 yards I took the dive.
Because of the design of the sights and size of the scope I had to pull some magic. It could also be considered foolishness depending on how you look at it.
Dovetail to weaver rail riser and medium rings. It needed a lot of clearance. A lot.
Anyway the scope is on and I have to sight it in and that's something that I've never done before. I'm guessing that it will be a pretty frustrating experience so we'll see.
That's that for this rifle. 1022, you're next.
Here's the kit. This is what $18 buys you - a couple springs and shims.
So I previously installed and uninstalled the lightest spring of the kit, but because the trigger pull was so light I didn't know whether or not it was actually legal. Turns out there are no laws, just safety concerns with that kind of thing. I didn't use the shims because it didn't have much trigger creep anyway, but this time I just replaced everything.
Go ahead and check the site out because the instructions there are pretty straight forward.
The 1/8" punch that I have is not small enough and you need smaller. Maybe the Czechs have it different, but I don't have a drift punch and this one couldn't make it in the holes (that's what she said). So instead of spending more cash, I fabricated my own and used some grinded down nails. It was pretty ghetto but worked.
This is the first pin you need to remove - it holds the rear of the trigger and spring rod in place.
Let me just tell you that this was really difficult to get out the first time because the ends were actually mushroomed (and I didn't realize it). While it wasn't as hard as the sights of a 10/22, it was still kind of sketchy since those parts are so thin. It was easier this time around but still snug, which I think is a good thing.
Luckily all the parts of the trigger are metal instead of plastic like the 10/22, so being rough with those pins felt mildy acceptable.
Once the pin is removed the trigger swings down as well as the spring assembly. Don't lose the washer above the trigger adjustment nut either.
That spring is what determines the trigger pull weight. I used the second lightest spring in the kit.
If you're interested, this guy does a good job explaining the whole setup, how it works and where the creep comes from.
Remove the second pin and the trigger comes completely free. The gap where second pin fits is where the creep comes from. When you pull the trigger the tiny space that the pin has to travel before actually making contact with the sear is creep. You can think of it as a dead zone before things actually go click.
I didn't really have that much before but I can honestly say that now I have none...or so little that it's not noticeable to me anyway. Pretty much a light touch will fire it now.
Once you have the trigger out it's just a matter of trying out the different shims to see what fills the gap between the sear best. Turns out that the red one fits mine or at least that's what I thought at the time. It's 1/16000" inch thick.
It's trial and error with this step and you basically need to keep putting back/taking off the trigger to see what works. You can't really tell by just half putting it back on and eye balling it (I learned that the fool's way). You really put everything in to see if it actually fits alright.
Maybe because I'm such a noob, but the difference between shims is so small and barely noticeable that I honestly don't even know if I chose the right one.
The kit also provides you with a new pin (left) to use instead of the old one (right). The replacement isn't actually a pin, but a rolled piece of metal.
The kit comes with 4 springs. The lightest is rated at 0.5 pounds and the heaviest 3 pounds. Since there's no measurements for the ones in between, I guess the second lightest is around 1 pound. That's a complete guess but it's noticeably lighter than the stock spring, which I also don't know the weight of. The lightest one felt borderline dangerous and would probably just fire if the stock was hit.
Put everything back together and you're done.
On a related note, I finally scoped the thing. The stock iron sights are pretty awesome but because I have horrible eyes and can't even see the targets at 100 yards I took the dive.
Because of the design of the sights and size of the scope I had to pull some magic. It could also be considered foolishness depending on how you look at it.
Dovetail to weaver rail riser and medium rings. It needed a lot of clearance. A lot.
Anyway the scope is on and I have to sight it in and that's something that I've never done before. I'm guessing that it will be a pretty frustrating experience so we'll see.
That's that for this rifle. 1022, you're next.
2 comments:
Great post. Thanks for taking the time to write that up. I'm interested in installing the same trigger kit in my CZ (a 455 American). How did it end up shooting?
I put this kit in my cz452 a couple years ago, with the crap scope that came with this rifle I can now shoot a 10c piece at 100m of hand.. Safe to say I'm pretty bloody rapped, tho I don't let other people touch it, trigger is to light.. It's something you really need to get use too, and keep your fingers way away from the trigger!!
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